Well, with little relish but clear resolve, we culled a Welsummer cockerel last weekend. We will do one a week for the rest of the month. That night it made a decent roast bird, served alongside all our own croft produce: broad beans mashed with fresh ‘green’ garlic, boiled Stroma second early potatoes, peas, shallots, and some of those funny ball-shaped Paris variety carrots. The bird’s liver was a succulent highlight. In the future, we will probably go the slow-cooked, braising route ...


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