Whisky is a shortened form of usquebaugh, which English borrowed from Irish Gaelic uisce beatha and Scottish Gaelic uisge beatha. This compound descends from Old Irish uisce, "water", and bethad, "of life". and meaning literally "water of life". It meant the same thing as the Latin aqua vītae which had been applied to distilled drinks since early 14th century. Other early spellings include usquebea (1706) and iskie bae (1583). In the Irish Annals of Clonmacnoise in 1405, the first written record of whisky appears describing the death of a chieftain at Christmas from "taking a surfeit of aqua vitae". In Scotland, the first evidence of whisky production comes from an entry in the Exchequer Rolls for 1494 where malt is sent "To Friar John Cor, by order of the king, to make aquavitae". (source Wikipedia) Malt Whisky
Regions:
Where Malt Whisky is Made
There are discernable differences between whiskies made in one region and those made in another. Traditionally there were four distilling regions: Lowland, Highland, Islay and Campbeltown. Sometimes the latter two were lumped together, and some early writers refer simply to 'Eastern' and 'Western' malts!
Speyside
The important region of 'Speyside' is a modern sub-division of Highland. Prior to World War II many of the distilleries in this area adopted the appellation 'Glenlivet' (which is a small glen on Speyside) - by tagging it onto the distillery name. The whiskies of Glenlivet had established a reputation by the 18th century - even though they were made outside the law!
Today over half of Scotland's malt whisky distilleries are on Speyside, and as a result the region itself has been carved up by commentators, either according to the rivers running through it or by its principle districts. The latter course has been adapted and the whiskies made in or around Elgin, the Upper Spey, Dufftown and Glenrothes, will be considered as well as Glenlivet itself.
Highland
In recent times, 'Highland' has been further broken down by broad geographical district: North, East, West and Central.
It is impossible to be categoric about the flavour characteristics associated with each region - especially when the wood the whisky has been matured in makes such a huge contribution. Nevertheless, there are certain salient features which will be identified in this journey around the whisky regions of Scotland. 
Malt Whisky Regions
The Western Highlands |
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'Talisker is not a drink, it is an interior explosion, distilled central heating; it depth charges the parts, bangs doors and slams windows. There's nothing genteel about Talisker.'
(Derek Cooper, 1989)
West Highland Malts
There are five distilleries in the West Highlands, three on islands and two on the mainland. The island distilleries are: Jura (Isle of Jura), Ledaig/Tobermory (Isle of Mull) and Talisker (Isle of Skye). The mainland distilleries are: Oban (in Oban) and Ben Nevis (at Fort William).
Smoky-pepper
If they share a characteristic it is smoky/peppery, not as strong as Islay malts, and very much depending upon age.
Jura
Jura Distillery was opened in 1963 - the brain-child of two landowners, seeking to find employment for the islanders. When its product first came on the market, in 1974, it was mild, pale and delicate - quite unlike the rugged island that gave it birth. It bears comparison with the lighter style of Islays, and is the mildest of the West Highland malts.
Ledaig was built in 1798, of a date with Tobermory, the fishing port it stands within. It has been in and out of production in recent years, but can produce an excellent malt if well aged. It is rare at the moment.
Lava of the Cuillins
Skye has the mighty Talisker, called 'the lava of the Cuillins' [the famous mountains of Skye]. Long celebrated - even Robert Louis Stevenson mentioned it. Its flavour is hot and peppery, oily - like Irish whiskey.
Ben Nevis
Ben Nevis Distillery takes its name from, and stands in the shadow of, the highest mountain in Great Britain. It was built by 'Long John' Macdonald, a redoubtable figure of 6'4", who presented a cask of his whisky to Queen Victoria. She had it laid down for ftfteen years, and broached it on the Prince of Wales' 21 st birthday. Now revived by a Japanese distilling company, its whisky is excellent.
Oban
Oban is also an old established distillery (1794). Like Ledaig, it has had a somewhat chequered career, and like Talisker its future is now secure, since it has been selected for promotion as one of the 'Classic Malts'
West Highland Malts' Characteristics
West Highland malts are much less peated than their southen cousins in Islay, although they all have at least a whiff of smoke and a mildly phenolic flavour. If there is a uniting factor it is the sweet start and the dryish, peppery finish of these whiskies, particularly Talisker and Oban (and one might add Highland Park, from Orkney, but I have included this in the next section). Ben Nevis is a one off; sweet, with a remarkable aroma and flavour of coconuts. The brand Tobermory is a vatted malt, not a single malt. |
Malt Whisky Regions
The Central Highlands |
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'The distilleries of Perthshire have led the way in providing visitors' centres, which are now second only to castles as tourist attractions throughout Scotland. This is not surprising, since all are within easy reach of the A 9, the artery of the north.'
(Ross Leckie, 1993)
Central Highland Malts
These used to be called the 'Perthshire Whiskies'. Most are found along the valleys of the Tay and its tributaries, the Tummel and the Earn.
The furthest north is Dalwhinnie, which qualifies as a Speyside, although it is at the very head of the river, over sixty miles from Grantown-on-Spey. The original name of the distillery was 'Strathspey'. Certainly its product - one of the 'Classic Malts' - leans towards Speyside in character.
Smallest distillery in Scotland
Blair Athol and Edradour Distilleries are both near Pitlochrie. The former was founded in the 1790s and was substantially rebuilt in 1949 ('almost a model distillery'). Edradour is the smallest distillery in Scotland - a happy survivor of the days of 'farm distilleries' - yet produces a clean, fresh, attractive and justly popular whisky. The floral, minty, sweet-to start/dry-to-finish flavour of these whiskies are typical of the region.
Oldest distillery in Scotland
South again is Aberfeldy Distillery, on the edge of the pretty town of the same name (it was built by Dewar's in 1898, and it still the 'heart malt' of their blend - the most popular Scotch in the U.S.A.). Glenturret, at Crieff is one of the claimants to being the oldest distillery, although it was dismantled in the 1920s and is much changed. It is a major tourist attraction with more visitors than any other distillery in Scotland.
Finally, Tullibardine (which was mothballed in 1995) is close to Gleneagles, on the site of the first public brewery in Scotland (it uses the same source of water), while Deanston, at Doune, is within a converted cotton-mill, built in 1785 by Richard Arkwright, the inventor of the 'Spinning jenny'.
Central Highland Malts' Characteristics
The offerings from the Central Highlands are a mixed bag. Generally they are lighter-bodied and sweeter that their cousins to the east, but not as sweet as Speysides. Like Speysides, they are fragrant - blossom, violets, elderflowers, heather, mint, spice, pears: all these words appear in the tasting notes - but they tend to have a dry finish (like other Highland malts, apart from Speysides).
'Useful, robust whiskies, somewhat below the highest grade in delicacy'
(Aeneas MacDonald, 1930) |
Malt Whisky Regions
Eastern Highlands |
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"It is a privilege to have tasted such a rich whisky [Royal Lochnagar].. At one time it was the most expensive whisky in Scotland.'
(Professor RJ.S. MacDowall, 1967)
East Highland Malts
Moray to the Tay
The region, which stretches from the Moray Firth to the Firth of Tay, and West as far as Deeside, just over the hills from Speyside, is one of rich farmland. There are only six operating distilleries here: prior to 1983 there were over twice that number.
Two are rated 'First Class': Royal Lochnagar and Glendronach. The first is a wonderfully smooth, rich, butterscotch-flavoured whisky made in the shadow of the mountain of the same name, in a distillery established in 1825 (rebuilt 1845). The second is also luscious and sherried, with vanilla notes, some smoke and a dry finish.
North
The latter characteristics - smooth, with some smoke, malty-sweet with a dry finish - are typical of the region. The distilleries in the northern part of the region - Macduff, Ardmore, Glen Garioch, Knockdhu - tend to be dryer. The last-mentioned has improved greatly in recent years under new management; Glen Garioch (which was closed by its owners in 1995, but is still often encountered) is variable but can be very good, with most unusual gingery notes.
South
Further south is Fettercairn, in the rich red Meams, an underestimated malt with a fruity/fudge-like nose (but still the dry finish), and Glencadam, the last remaining distillery at Brechin, which produces an unusual creamy, fruity (tangerines especially) malt.
East Highland Malts' Characteristics
The malts from distilleries north of Aberdeen - Macduff (the product is named Glen Deveron in its proprietary bottlings), Knockdhu, Ardmore, Glendronach and Glengarrioch - are medium-bodied, malty, slightly sweet, smooth, slightly smoky and with a surprisingly dry finish. South of Aberdeen - Royal Lochnagar, Fettercairn, Glencadam - they become richer, more toffee-like, with citrus notes, but still a whiff of smoke and still the dry finish. |
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"At Copenhagen, where the vessel called after leaving Kirkwall, the King of Denmark, the Emperor of Russia and a very distinguished party were entertained on Board. The Highland Park was pocured and pronounced by all to be the finest whisky they had ever tasted '
(Sir Donald Currie, 1883)
North Highland Malts
Highland Park
Highland Park Distillery, on the edge of Kirkwall in Orkney, has more of an affinity with the West Highlands, flavour-wise, than with the palish, fragrant, fresh-flavoured North Highland group of malts. Highland Park is a medium-bodied whisky with a heathery aroma - in some bottlings this becomes very aromatic, like a barber's shop - and dry, peaty notes. The flavour combines heather-honey with spice and almonds, and the finish is dry.
Scapa
Its neighbour, Scapa, stands on the northern shore of the Scapa Flow. It was one of the most up-to-date distilleries when it was built in 1885, but it has been much added to over the years. Scapa is interesting, but has never been considered a front runner.
Coastal distilleries
The North Highland distilleries are all coastal (apart from the southern most, Tomatin, and the latter is included for convenience: its product has more of a Speyside character).
The most northern is Pulteney, which produces a delicious, fragrant, dry whisky, long referred to as 'the Manzanilla of the north'. Then comes Clynelish at Brora (built in 1969, beside an earlier (1819) distillery) - a sophisticated and complex whisky (hyacinths, fennel, Latakia tobacco), it was once very highly regarded and deserves to be better known. It is a core malt in the super de-luxe Johnnie Walker Gold blend.
Glenmorangie
Glenmorangie, made near the ancient Royal Burgh of Tain on the Cromarty Firth, is the most popular malt in Scotland. Medium-bodied and delicately complex in its standard (10 Years Old) bottling, it is a supremely well-made whisky. The distillery pioneered the idea of re-racking from bourbon to sherry-wood for the final years of maturation, with great success. This is now much imitated.
North Highland Malts' Characteristics
North-Highland malts tend to be light bodied, delicate whiskies with complex aromas and a dryish finish sometimes spicy, sometimes with a trace of salt. Some are faintly peaty (Highland Park, Scapa, Clynelish, Balblair); in others the smoke is more like Lapsang Suchong (Pulteney, Teaninich, Dalmore). They cannot take too much sherry-wood maturation (although, the sherry-finishing technique developed at Glenmorangie suits them well). |
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Malt Whisky Regions
Campbeltown |
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“Oh, Campbeltown Loch, I wish you was whisky;
Campbeltown Loch, och aye'
Campbeltown Loch, I wish you was whisky -
And I would drink you dry!'
(Popular Victorian Music Hall Song)
The Kintyre peninsula
The Kintyre peninsula - that long green finger which points towards Ireland - is the most southerly point on the West Coast. It was a haven for illicit distillers in days gone by. Some go so far as to claim that the art of distilling arrived here with the first Gaels from Ireland, in the 6th century.
Campbeltown, the only township of any size in Kintyre, was certainly one of the first centres of commercial distilling, and Campbeltown whiskies themselves had a reputation to rival Speyside. Between 1880 and the 1920s, there were thirty-four working distilleries here, producing some 2 million gallons of spirit per annum. Campbeltown vied with Elgin as 'the whisky capital'. Today there are only two distilleries, Springbank and Glen Scotia.
Springbank
Springbank is a most distinguished whisky, described as 'Premier Grand Cru Classe' by the Sunday Times, following a tasting in 1983. The distillery was built about 1828 on the site of one Archibald Mitchell's illicit still. His descendants own and control the distillery to this day.
It is one of the most traditional of distilleries: the original buildings are still in use, they still have their own floor maltings and boatskin larch washbacks; a unique wash still is heated both directly (oil fired) and by steam coils, and employs and old fashioned copper 'rummager' to prevent solids scorching in the base of the still.
Glen Scotia
Glen Scotia was first registered as a distillery in 1835, but has had a somewhat chequered career. It was thoroughly overhauled in 1980, but closed in 1984 and only re-opened in 1989 after being sold to its current owners.
Campbeltown Malts' Charateristics
Campbeltowns are traditionally full-flavoured and full-bodied whiskies, famous for their depth of flavour and for their slightly salty tang in the finish. They were referred to as "'The Hector of the West', the deepest voice in the choir". The overall impression is often compared to 'sea mist'.
Springbank is the senior offering. It can take long maturation to great advantage, becoming raisiny and rich. |
Malt Whisky Regions
The Lowlands |
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'The first whiskies to be drunk in quantity in England.'
(Professor RJ.S. McDowall, 1967)
When Professor McDowell was writing, there were only two Lowland whiskies available as single malts - Rosebank and Bladnoch - yet there were ten operating distilleries. Now there are only three, Glenkinchie, Auchentoshan and Ladyburn - and the latter is not bottled as a single by its owners.
Whisky for blending
The region embraces the mainland of Scotland south of the Central Belt (a line drawn between the Forth and Loch Lomond). There was a time, in the 1850s, when every town of any size in the Lowlands had its distillery, to supply the English market as well as local demands. For the style of Lowland whisky is much lighter than Highland, with little or no peating, and this had much broader appeal. By the 1880s almost the entire production of the Lowland distilleries went for blending: today, it is possible (and more cost effective) to create Highland malts with a light character to suit the requirements of blenders.
Fragrant yet reserved
Auchentoshan Distillery is on the northern edge of Glasgow and was founded in 1800. It has a light, cereal nose with a lemony tinge and a clean, dry finish. Glenkinchie Distillery is situated at Pencaitland, just outside Edinburgh. Its product is an excellent representative of the style of Lowland malt whiskies: fragrant yet reserved, with a clean, fresh flavour and a dry, gingery finish.
Rosebank was generally considered to be the best Lowland malt.
Long maturation
It seems to be a characteristic of Lowlands that they can take very long maturation without becoming woody: St.Magdalene 1965 is wonderful (although the distillery in Linlithgow was turned into flats in 1983).
Lowland Malts' Characteristics
Lowlands typically have a dry finish, which makes them excellent aperitifs. The dryness comes from the malt itself, not from peat (Lowlands tend to use unpeated malt), and this also lends a certain sweet fruitiness to the flavour and mouthfeel. Their aromatic intensity is low, and tends to be grassy or herbal, with grainy and floral notes. It used to be said that they leant a brandy-like flavour to a blended whisky.
The Sad Demise
In 1974, there were fourteen Lowland malts available to blenders:
Auchmtoshan, Auchtermuchty (closed 1926), Auchtertool (closed 1927), Bankier (closed 1928), Bladnoch (closed 1993), Glenkinchic, Inverleven (closed 1991), Kinclaith (closed 1992), Ladyburn, Littlemill (closed 1993), Provanmill (closed 1929), Rosebank (closed 1993) and St Magdalene (closed 1983).
Glengoyne, on Loch Lomond, is also listed as a Lowland, although its current owners prefer to call it a Highland. |
Malt Regions
Speyside Whisky
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'The most complex of whiskies, and the most elegant'
(Michael Jackson)
The River Spey
The River Spey rises in the western Monadhliath Mountains, fifteen miles west of Newtonmore, and meanders east and north, sundering the Monadhliath range from the Cairngorms, and then flowing through the fertile Laigh o'Moray and the district called Strathspey until it meets the Moray Firth at Spey Bay. It is the fastest flowing river in Britain, and famous for its salmon fishing.
Forty-six distilleries
This is among the loveliest scenery in Scotland. It is also the principal whisky-producing region: Speyside has within it some forty-six operating distilleries - over half the total number in the entire country - and among them some of the most famous names.
Perhaps surprisingly, very few Speyside distilleries actually draw their water from the Spey itself, or from its famous tributary rivers, the Fiddich, Lossie and Dullan. They get it from adjacent springs and rivulets.
"It would be no true or, at least, no very discerning lover of whisky who could enter this almost sacred zone without awe."
(Aeneas MacDonald, 1930)
Speyside Malts' Characteristics
Speysides are essentially sweet whiskies. They have little peaty character (although some have a whiff of smoke) and their salient characteristic is estery - typically, this aroma is compared to pear-drops or solvent (nail varnish remover, particularly). They can be highly perfumed: scents of carnations, roses, violets, apples, bananas, cream soda and lemonade have all been discovered in Speyside malts.
They take maturation in sherry-wood well and can be rich and full bodied, medium and light-bodied.
Top Dressings
Blenders used to classify Highland malt whiskies into four classes, Top, lst, 2nd and 3rd, according to the contribution they made to their blends. The ratings varied slightly from blender to blender but were broadly similar. A typical blender's classification from 1974 lists only a dozen as 'Top Class'. All of them are Speysides.
"It is their glory that they make a good marriae with the Highland malts of the Spey district, bringing out the qualities of their mate without sacrificing any of their own beauties in the process'.
(Aeneas MacDonald, 1930)
'Eye-la'
| The Island of Islay (pronounced 'Eye-la') is the southenunost of the Western Isles, and lies on the eastern side of Kintyre. It is flat and green and very largely composed of peat - the water on the island is brown with it. Winter gales drive salt spray far inland, and this saturates the peat, which is dried again by the briny, seaweedy breeze. All these characteristics go into the whiskies of Islay, to a greater or lesser extent. |
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Strongest flavoured
There are eight distilleries on the island, all coastal and battered by salt-winds. Among their products are the strongest flavoured of all malt whiskies, a property which endears them to some and disgusts others.
Southern
The southern distilleries - Ardbeg, Laphroaig, Lagavulin, Port Ellen (the latter was closed in 1983) - are the most powerful, producing medium-bodied whiskies, saturated with peat-smoke, brine and iodine. Not only do these disilleries use heavily peated malt (50 parts per million at Ardbeg, 40 parts per million at Laphroaig), they use the island's brown water for every stage of production - until they were closed in the early 1980s, Ardbeg had its own floor maltings and used to steep the barley in the same water.
Northern
The northern Islay distilleries - Bruichladdich (the 'ch' is silent) and Bunnahabhain ('Boona-hah-ven') are, by contrast, much milder. These draw their water direct from the spring, before it has had contact with peat, and use lightly or un-peated barley. The resulting whiskies are lighter flavoured, mossy (rather than peaty), with some seaweed, some nuts, but still the dry finish.
Bowmore Distillery, in the middle of the island, stands between the two extremes - peaty but not medicinal, with some toffee, some floral scents, and traces of linseed oil. Coal lla ('Cal-eela'), although close to Bunnahabhain, produces a delicate, greenish malt, with some peat/iodine/salt balanced by floral notes and a peppery finish.
Islay Malts' Characteristics
Islay whiskies generally reverse the characteristics of Speysides, tending to be dry and peaty; behind the smoke, however, can be gentle mossy scents, and some spice. The southern Islay distilleries produce powerfully phenolic whiskies, with aromas redolent of tar, smoke, iodine and carbolic. Bowmore, in the middle of the island, shares these characteristics but is not quite so powerful, as does Caol Ila. Bruichladdich and Bunnahabhain are lighter and much less smoky. All Islays have a dry finish, the southern ones with quite a bite. |
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Your Complete Whisky Trail Itinerary
(download for free the pdf file below) 
Tasting Whisky
1. Introduction to Tasting
The Senses
The Nose
Whisky tasting is done principally with the nose - a far more acute organ than the tongue, although the two interrelate as the sample is swallowed.
While there are only four primary tastes, there are 32 primary smells. These are aromatic volatiles, which are detected by a small fleshy bulb called the Olfactory Epithelium, located at the back of our noses and having a direct link to the brain.
The Tongue
As well as registering the primary tastes, the tongue also detects what is termed 'mouthfeel' - the viscosity, texture and smoothness of the fluid we are swallowing - and 'pungency' (which is essentially an evaluation of pain - from irritation to unbearable - and is also picked up by the nose). In whisky tasting, pungency is particularly apparent in very strong spirit, which may sting your nose and tongue and induce numbness (temporary anaesthesia). So you have to be careful when nosing whisky at full strength - i.e. as it comes from the cask.
Flavour
Is a combination of three factors: smell, taste and feeling.
Our noses detect scents - nuances of flavour from volatile aromatics - and pass this information direct to our brains. Our sense of the smells that surround us are recorded unconsciously, yet smells probably trigger memories more effectively than sounds or sights: they are the most evocative of experiences. With a little practice you can soon learn to break smells down and identify their constituent parts. Putting names to them is more difficult, and will be explored later in this section.
Primary tastes are registered by little sensory receptors on our tongues and palates. These are broadly arranged so that sweet flavours are picked up on the tip of the tongue, sour and salt flavours by the sides and middle and bitter flavours at the back. The time it takes to stimulate the different areas of the tongue varies, with the bitter receptors taking the longest, so it is important when tasting to hold the liquid in the mouth and to make sure it coats the tongue thoroughly.
2. Appearance and Aroma
Appearance
Pour in a measure of whisky - about an ounce or a generous finger's breadth. Hold the glass to the light, or against a white napkin, and admire its colour, depth and clarity. New spirit is gin-clear; 20 years in sherry wood may turn the whisky the colour of treacle. Between these poles is a spectrum of hues.
The whisky's appearance should be a guide to how it has been matured, and for how long, since the colour comes from the wood. A very dark sherry will almost certainly have been matured in a first-fill oloroso cask; a very pale one suggests a third or fourth fill bourbon hogshead. Remember that unless you are drinking whisky which has been drawn from a single cask, a number of different casks (from three to three hundred) will have been vatted together.
To confuse the issue further, distillers are allowed to add small amounts of colouring (in the form of caramel) in order to ensure that each batch looks the same as the next. They claim this is tasteless; many people think otherwise
Aroma
Aroma (Straight)
Swirl the whisky in the glass and sniff it cautiously. If it has been bottled direct from the cask it may be as much as 63% alcohol, and too powerful a sniff can anaesthetise your sense of smell for a short time.
Different whiskies cause slightly different physical effects, especially when they are at cask strength (i.e. un-reduced prior to bottling): experts refer to phenomena such as 'nose prickle', or 'nose drying', or even ’nose burn'.
The cardinal, characteristic aromas of the particular whisky will be present - you should note them down, if you can identify them - but they may well be 'closed': subdued, spirity and vapourous.
Aroma (Dilute)
Now add a little water.
In Tasting Room conditions, professional tasters reduce the spirit to 20% alcohol - in other words, a fraction over the same amount of water as the whisky in standard UK bottlings.
Be very careful, however, with very old (over 20 years, say) or very sherried whiskies. They can be 'damaged’ by too much water; the aromas 'break up' and the flavour becomes flat.
In ordinary circumstances such whiskies are likely to be drunk as digestifs, and often, like fine cognac, no water is added: in effect, your saliva acts as the dilutant.
Peaty and very spirity whiskies can take a lot more water. The answer is to experiment: add a little water - nose - taste - add a little more - until you feel the whisky is giving of its best, aromatically.
Spirits are evaluated more by nose than taste, unlike other drinks. Indeed, professional noses don't taste at all. They get all the information they need from sniffing.
Take a couple of deep sniffs of fresh air, then plunge in again.
Take further notes - as whacky as you like: it is very difficult to put words to smells, but great fun when you let go. You'll find that when you come up with an accurate descriptor, the rest of the company will respond immediately and enthusiastically!
Rest from time to time: with continued sniffing, the intensity of the aromas you perceive will fade quickly - so it is pointless to nose a single sample for too long.
3. Taste and Finish
Mouthfeel
Fill your mouth
Take a large enough sip to fill your mouth, then roll it over your tongue. First you want to register the 'texture’ of the whisky. It may be smooth and viscous, spirity and vapourous or astringent and dry.
Then you want to identify the primary tastes - the immediate flavours your tongue collects. There are only four: sweet (on the tip of the tongue) salty and sour (at the sides) and dry/bitter (at the back). Most whiskies will present a mixture of these flavours, sometimes beautifully balanced, sometimes less so. If you are being really analytical you should measure the intensity of these flavours on a 1-5 scale.
Slàinte mhath !
Have Fun! |
